Kamakura in Kanagawa prefecture is a fantastic place to visit, and only 50km from Tokyo. The centre is compact, but the temples and shrines, which bring visitors to the town, are spread widely to the west, north and east. For about 140 years it was the most important city in Japan (between about 1192 to 1333). Because of its importance, there is a great collection of temples and shrines, and is in some respects a 'mini-Kyoto'. The city is by the coast and the local beaches attract thousands of fun-seekers, who come for the year-round surfing and wind-surfing, or summer swimming. These beaches extend on past the island of Enoshima, to Shonan and beyond.
Accommodation in the town is limited but most people come on a daytrip from Tokyo or Yokohama. I stayed overnight in Kamakura only once, at the Shangrila hotel (definitely not part of the chain of international hotels!) Usually, it is easier to find cheap business hotels in nearby Fujisawa and use the quaint Enoden line to reach the town. To see most of the sights comfortably, you will need two days, or rush round in a taxi in one day. I recommend two days as there is a nice hiking course through the surrounding hills that links up several major temples and smaller shrines, and this will take most of one day.
From Tokyo, take the JR Yokosuka line to the northern station: Kita-Kamakura, or the central station: Kamakura. Alternatively, take the Odakyu line from Shinjuku in Tokyo, to Fujisawa. Then change onto the Enoshima Electric Railway (Enoden line) for a scenic ride along the coast before reaching Kamakura. There is a convenient 'Freepass' that allows unlimited travel on the Enoden line, which is very useful as two of the main temples are on the line, as is Enoshima island. On a sunny day, this is a great option and is thoroughly recommended.
Getting around the sights involves walking, buses, taxis and trains, so it's a little complicated at times. It's best to plan your route in advance and avoid too much back-tracking. The town centre has a long, narrow, pedestrianized street that runs parallel to the main road from the beach to the large Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu shrine. This is easily walked from the station, so don't take a taxi!
The area has been populated for thousands of years. However, the city became famous when it became the seat of power of Shogun Minamoto no Yoritomo. This was the start of the Kamakura period when the Emperor lived in Kyoto, but the Shogun held great power and control from his base in Kamakura. From 1192 to 1333, their was great development here, and at one point Kamakura was the world's 4th largest city. It was also a time of great bloodshed and death, with entire clans being wiped out in order to retain power. Needless to say, there were assassinations aplenty! If you want learn more about this period, please click the link.
After the rise of a city, there is the inevitable decline. Kamakura's decline began in 1333 when the city was attacked and taken by Nitta Yoshisada and his pro-Emperor forces. Nine hundred local samurai committed suicide, as did an estimated six thousand local people. The city never really recovered. There was further damage during a siege in 1454, and almost total destruction in 1526. Then in 1603, Edo was made Japanese capital, and Kamakura's importance was completely diminished. Luckily for us, during its heyday, many large and fine temples and shrines were constructed. Although many are actually replicas from after the 1923 earthquake, they are nonetheless impressive and give some idea of Kamakura's significance.
When most people think of Kamakura, they think of the daibutsu, or Great Buddha at the small Kotokuin temple. This 13.35m high bronze statue was first cast in 1252 and previously lived indoors, but the wooden building that housed it was lost in a 1498 tsunami, leaving the statue outdoors but very impressive. It is possible to go inside the statue to have a look, although there isn't much to see. However, the view from the outside is stunning. Set against a blue sky, this is a great photo-opportunity. Apart from the statue, there is little else of interest, apart from Buddha's giant straw sandals! Thankfully, close by is the very interesting Hasedera. Both temples are reached by taking the Enoden line from Kamakura, as they are located a few stations to the west of the centre.
Hasedera is a Buddhist temple with a good selection of attractions. Its hillside location provides fine views of the sea, and there is a surprising cave containing statues including Benzaiten, a sea-goddess, and the only one of the seven lucky gods who is female. But the main attraction is a magnificent 9.18m high wooden statue of Kannon. The wood comes from a single tree trunk from Nara, and was carved into the eleven-headed Bosatsu in 736. The gold-leaf was applied in 1342. There are other halls containing other gods such as Daikokuten - one of the seven gods of fortune; Fukuju Jizo - the Bodhisattva who looks after the souls of unborn children, among other duties; and the 2.8m seated Yakuyoke Amida Buddha. The gardens and ponds are lovely, especially during Hydrangea season, but the many steps may be difficult for some people to manage. Please click the link and take a look at the temple's own website to see photos and information on some of the other buildings.
The long beaches from Kamakura to Enoshima are a great place to spend the day, or to watch the sun set. If you are lucky to have a clear day and Mount Fuji is visible, then you will witness an amazing sight. The sun sets directly behind the great volcano and the entire scene is bathed in gold. It can take your breath away. Crowds gather on the sand or sea-walls, couples stroll hand-in-hand, owners walk their dogs, surfers catch the final waves of the day. All against the backdrop of one of the world's most magnificent volcanoes.
