I've been lucky enough to have visited the Indonesian island of Bali on three occasions, twice during my long long honeymoon in 2002 and once again in 2005. The island stands out from the rest of Indonesia due to its lively Hindu culture and customs. The human contrast is accentuated by a pronounced natural contrast with the islands to the East in the archipelago. Bali is green and Asian, whereas its quieter Muslim neighbour Lombok is dry and Australasian in character. This is The Wallace Line and is one of the world's most dramatic divisions. The waters between the two islands are deep and dangerous and mark one of two lines where plants and animals from different evolutionary paths collide. Wallace was an amazing but little recognized scientist and you can read about him by clicking the link.
Bali is at turns both paradise and paradise lost. Many visitors leave with mixed feelings as the island throws together the good and the bad with such ease. If you enjoy art and crafts, you will find some fantastic work here if you hunt through the 90% of mediocre tourist fodder. Everyone seems to be an artist here, and I love this for its liberating notion. Art is not precious on Bali, it becomes craft, working for a wage, catering to commercial demands. The hundreds of oil painters, silversmiths, sculptors, woodworkers, clothes producers and alike in a rush to produce for productions sake. Just make sure you do buy something, it's too easy to pass up the opportunity then regret it back home.
The scenery is spectacularly green with smoking volcanoes above green rice fields, long beaches and ancient temples. The interior design is thoroughly Balinese: dark wood with black and white checked fabric. The housing compounds are private oases, with stunning gardens full of beautiful fragrant flowers. The hotels are mostly stylish and typically tropical. If it wasn't for the litter you would think this is Eden. But there is litter, especially in the temple grounds and along the beaches. This distracts the visitor and is a problem that needs to be addressed. As does the attitude of a small minority of the locals, who can sometimes be annoying or indifferent to their foreign guests. That said, most Balinese are polite and tourists need not worry unduly.
The three villages of Kuta,
Legian and Seminyak now connect together along a long sweep of beach
and form the sinuous heart of the tourist area. The beach itself is
great for a long sunset stroll being wide and easy walking. On the
other hand, the sea is often too rough for swimming so be careful in
the surf, or rent a surfboard or boogie-board as the waves are
constantly crashing in. Many surfers come to Bali although they usually
find more esoteric spots than Kuta beach to enjoy the warm water. The
main road is quite noisy but has great shopping, as do the side roads
leading down to the beach. Seminyak is more upmarket but Kuta is where
the majority of the entertainment is to be found. It's a great place to
have fun day and night and many people make an effort to dress up in
the evenings. We had a lot of fun watching the sun go down night after
night with a gin and tonic in hand, followed by a promenade and then to
a beachside restaurant for some great food. As it is famous for its
sunsets, move your mouse over the small squares to take a look,
although it's better just to go see for yourself!
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Ubud is the cultural centre of the island for visitors. It is situated inland among rice paddies on the lower slopes of the volcanic heart of Bali and offers a host of pleasures for visitors. Outside town are a selection of excellent hotels and villas for those with deep pockets, while in the town itself, are some great guesthouses and bungalow complexes. These are often set right on the rice terraces and offer inexpensive accommodation with great views, the sound of frogs at night and convenient access to the attractions. During the day take a walk along the main street to the Monkey Forest, stopping in at any number of small shops along the way. In the evening after an early meal, take in one of the many shows featuring traditional gamelan orchestras and Balinese dancers. These are very atmospheric and lots of fun.
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Hinduism on Bali is a living religion that shapes the lives and deaths of the islanders. A visitor has much to see and learn from the grand temples to the daily offerings left on every doorstep. The most famous temple is Pura Tanah Lot - a photogenic spot on a small rocky outcrop just off the coast. Of course, there are usually too many of us tourists so don't expect tranquility. Besakih - The Mother temple, on the slopes of the Mount Agung volcano is the largest in Bali. Avoid the insistent helpful guides and make your own way in. As you climb up the hillside site the views are inspiring and the black rock carvings and buildings are both impressive but slightly un-nerving, with a decidedly dour heaviness. Also worth a visit is Goa Gajah - The Elephant Cave, where the cave entrance is a fantastic carving of leaves, rocks, animals and mythical figures. Click on the following link to take you to a great site telling you more about the temples of Bali. Below is a small selection of images from Goa Gajah, Besakih and Tirta Empul - The sacred spring.
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We first came to Bali for a week while travelling through Indonesia from Sumatra to Flores. Bali was a holiday within a holiday as the long journey was quite arduous and we badly needed some R&R. Our first stop was Sanur as we needed peace and quiet. Fumie had been to Bali six times before so knew it very well. I was disappointed with the beach as it is almost non-existent and the town was a bit empty too - probably due to the bombing. Even so, we still recharged our batteries and enjoyed the rest! Ubud was next on our itinerary and we stayed in a wonderful small guesthouse just outside town, surrounded by the still waters of the rice fields. At night, fire-flies wafted about and frogs croaked excitedly in the sultry atmosphere.
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Memories of the sensual dance performances and gamelan orchestra gong playing will remain with me forever. As will the helpful offers of 'Transport? Taxi?' from seemingly every single man we passed. It never grew tiring! The food was good but pricey, the central market noisy and unfriendly. We swam in the rooftop pool of a nearby small hotel and walked the streets soaking up the atmosphere. Monkey Forest road leads to the Monkey forest, and guess what! There are monkeys there! However, deep within the park is a deep gorge filled with luxuriant vegetation and moss-covered stone carvings - a truly lovely cool wet place, well worth the trip down the steep steps. All in all, Ubud deserves a few days attention, not just a quick trip.
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We decided to return to Bali in summer 2005 to enjoy a week based at the beach, a week in Ubud, then back to the beach to relax again before heading back to the hurly-burly of Tokyo. After scouring the internet and reading many reviews we chose The Bali Agung Village resort in Seminyak to the North of Kuta beach. Within our budget it was a great choice. Tucked away in a back street close to the beach, the resort is small and intimate with outstanding gardens and a small but deep and cool pool. This is a quiet place and instills a sense of peace and relaxation. Some people might complain that the doors to the rooms and villas were not insect-proof, but I'm not so churlish. I like wildlife!
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The village of Seminyak is generally quieter than Kuta and Legian and also has a selection of stylish shops. One of the things I like is that shop owners make an effort to decorate their shops in a trendy way. Often the products are the same as in other shops, but when displayed well, their value increases and importantly the inevitable shopping experience becomes more pleasurable (even for men!). There are a number of bars - some very fashionable, some down-to-earth. I got totally wasted one night on Long Island Iced Tea and ruined my next day's snorkelling trip. Silly boy! But we danced for hours.
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